Once we have your piece of furniture on the schedule, I will be in closer contact with you so that we can go over the details of your project. This is when I like to ask a lot of questions about your style, what the purpose of the piece is (high or low traffic area), paint colors…Basically, we narrow down and customize your wants and needs for the piece.
I like to give the estimate of two weeks. Sometimes it will be faster and sometimes it will take longer. Once we talk, I can let you know how close we can get to that. Most pieces take much longer than you would think to finish, but 2 weeks is a good estimate. I will keep you updates along the way to let you know how the pieces is progressing.
Once your piece is done, I will still advise you to wait 30 days for it to fully cure and harden. So no cleaning on it and I wouldn’t put anything heavy on it. For example, don’t put a heavy lamp on a freshly painted side table. It will feel dry to the touch of course, but these is a higher risk for it to chip or peel during those first 30 days.
Customers bring their pieces to me and I will work on them at my location. This helps to turn the piece around faster for you because it cuts out travel time and I can keep working on each step of the piece as needed (and between mom life.) Thank you for your understanding and cooperation with this!
Most of the time, I will use with Sherwin Williams Trim Enamel or Sherwin Williams ProClassic. I prefer to use latex in both of these paints. They are self leveling (very smooth finish) and have a lot of the good properties of an oil based paint but won’t yellow over time. However, if there is another paint that you would like for me to use, just ask! I’ll let you know if I have worked with it and what my thoughts are on if it is the best paint for your project.
When I use the Sherwin Williams trim enamel paint, no clear protective coat is necessary. It is wonderful! The urethane is formulated into the paint so this paint is crazy durable (once it has had the full 30 days to cure.)
With the Sherwin Williams ProClassic paint, and most other paints, I like to use a water based clear as my top coat. This is compatible with latex and chalk paint, and won’t yellow over time.
When I clear coat stains, I do consider polyurethane, but lean towards clear tones over amber tones. This is my personal preference and always want to hear input from the customer as well!
The following price menu is only a guide and these are estimates only. Each piece is different and prices can vary depending on prep work needed and the complexity of the project. Once we discuss your needs, I will be able to give you a more accurate quote.
Expect to pay more when stain is involved. The prep-work and the process of restaining and sealing is more labor intensive than paint. The prices above are, for the most part, referring to painted pieces.